Heeeeeey, guys.
So right now it's Wednesday here in Taiwan, where I have been for the last ten days. I just finished a bottle of orange juice, and mitcho and the other ETAs (English Teaching Assistants) are having important meetings about websites and other important things.
When you buy juice from a juice stand here, what they do is put fruit in a blender, blend it, and pour it through a strainer in to your cup. It's true. Last night I had watermelon juice made the same way.
Another important fruit institution is the fruit stand, frequent in night markets, where they have lots of whole fruit for sale, and you pick what you want, and they slice it and put it in a plastic baggy with a toothpick, which you use to spear fruit pieces to eat them.
Similar is every other stand in Taiwan, all open at different times of day, selling steamed dumplings and noodle soups and fried rice and more dumplings and rice balls full of 758974390578304 different things (whatever you want). My favorite stalls so far are the ones where you pick out things and they quickly grill or deep-fry them (deep-fried mushrooms = delicious) and give them to you on a stick or with a toothpick to eat out of a little paper sack, and the ones where you pick a couple of kinds of vegetables and/or meat and/or tofu and a type of noodles and they make you a noodle soup. I haven't had
bao zi (pronounced "BOW-tzu") yet, which is too bad, because I already know they are delicious. Last night I also tried something, I don't know what it's called, where you put little shavings of peanut brittle, three little scoops of ice cream, and
cilantro (no joke) into a burrito/crepe/something wrapper. Intense. Food here is all about being very fresh and generally involving copious amounts of pork, except for the (Buddhist!) vegetarian restaurants, which are totally vegetarian and involve cleverer and more delicious fake meat than the West has managed to come up with, when they have fake meat at all. Also no onions or garlic, so I hear.... Certain sects of Buddhism prohibit the eating of meat entirely, some only for monks, &c., but there are a great many vegetarian restaurants here, anyhow.
Oh let me see, let me see...
I left Chicago on Friday, November 30th, and arrived at 6:30 in the morning on Sunday, December 2nd. mitcho found me at the airport and we spent the day in Taipei, walking around a nice park, napping a bit in a hotel, visiting a
night market (the image for the wikipedia article is actually the very night market we visited), and seeing a late-night showing of the movie Hero, made from the
drama of the same name, which I love very deeply. Culture points I learned the first day:
(1) Western-style sit-down restaurants, while extant, are not the norm. The norm are stalls halfway between cart and cafe, with entirely open fronts (or, on corners, open fronts and side). The food is cooked on a cart with little tables and chairs behind. And such a place will only serve one thing, so you decide what you want and then say "oh let's go to the rice-ball place on the next block," and then you get drinks somewhere else altogether.
(2) People are nice.
(3) Scooters (mopeds??) are ubiquitous.
(4) Like in Japan, fashion is high, but different from America.
(5) "Internet cafe" is not an institution here the way it is at home-- rather, they're places full to bursting of desktop stations, equally full of fourteen-year-old boys playing noisy online games, and if you want you can buy bowls of instant ramen.
The next day we hopped a train back to Nanao, the township where mitcho lives and teaches. It has just over 5,000 inhabitants, all spread out from one another in little villages incorporated into the township. Nanao proper is a small town, about the size of downtown Palatka. We met with mitcho's co-teacher Jennifer to talk about lessons and then got me moved into mitcho's tiny little dorm room. Culture points I learned the second day:
(1) Train lunch boxes are delicious.
(2) Everyone here has an English name-- they get it in school in first grade, which makes for an interesting array of names, many of which repeat, and many of which you don't see among Americans of similar age anymore (Leo, Anne).
(3) Fashion in Nanao is the opposite of high.
(4) Once you leave the capital, you as a white person (or a black person, but I am not) are an oddity, and are stared at. In all honesty I did expect this coming in, but it's interesting. I will explicate further later.
(5) Seven-Eleven and Family Mart, the dueling convenient stores of Taiwan, are ubiquitous-- even a one-horse town like Nanao has one of each.
Since then I've been with mitcho in nanao, though on Tuesdays we go to Yilan City for meetings and mitcho's Chinese class. Yilan City has its own night market and almost 100,000 citizens, although it never manages to seem big, probably because all of the buildings are smallish and there doesn't seem to be one concentrated "downtown."
One Taiwanese dollar (NT$) is a bit over three cents, I think, so one calculates rough pricage here by multiplying things by three and pretending there's a decimal. Thus mitcho and I frequently have NT$35 bowls of noodles, which are actually about a dollar twenty-five. Things are almost obscenely cheap, often. It's really easy to live here, but on the other hand, cooking (at least for mitcho) isn't particularly cost-efficient. Sales tax is also prefigured into the prices of items, so you can go into a Seven and buy two bottles of beverage for twenty-five dollars, and hand over a fifty dollar coin, and you're done. It's marvelous.
The whiteness factor: In Taipei, foreigners are not particularly interesting, but in smaller cities they're really something to comment on, and people do. What I find particularly interesting is that people between the ages of about ten and sixty don't like to be caught staring and so are furtive about stealing glances at the American (me), but small children and those safely classed as "senior citizens" are equally unabashed about staring. Last night in the market with mitcho and his friends (other Fulbrighters) Josue and Julie, we stopped to buy the abovementioned delicious watermelon thing, and the two sixty-something women at the stand were speaking and looking
directly at me. I started freaking out because they were
talking to me and I couldn't respond and felt very rude, but mitcho was frustratingly nonchalant.
"mitcho! mitcho! What are they saying?? I can't understand!!"
"Relax, they're not talking to you."
"mitcho, they are!"
"No, they aren't."
"But they're looking RIGHT AT ME."
"You're
white."
"Oh."
And he was correct. It's really just good-natured, open curiosity at an unfamiliar sight. Political correctness as such doesn't seem much to exist either, but it has nothing to do with a lack of kindness. When mitcho and I saw the Hero movie, the young man selling the tickets expressed concern, wondering if I would be able to enjoy the movie. Why? It was in Japanese with Chinese subtitles, and I am white. mitcho explained to the man that I speak Japanese (an exaggeration, especially considering the movie concerns lots of legal terminology, but there were exceptionally good English subtitles, so it was fine), but I was slightly taken aback for a moment. I felt that perhaps offense at his generalization based on my race was sort of an option, but decided it was an extraordinarily stupid one, given that the average white person
doesn't have particular facility with East Asian languages, or any Asian languages, and Americans in particular with no language besides English, and so his generalization is pretty accurate, and besides, he was only being somewhat unusually kind, worrying about my enjoyment and not making a critical judgment about white people.
A cute thing: everyone in town recognizes mitcho by sight, even ones who don't know him, which is sort of odd given that outside of Nanao he's often first taken for Taiwanese (he looks much more Asian than American, and is also taken for a native Japanese when in Japan, though that's easier to support since his Japanese is native). So the little kids who have bigger siblings in his classes call "mitcho! mitcho!!" when they see him, but can't really respond to his "Hello! How are you?"
More + pictures later (I hope).